Known as the ‘City of Love’.
Love for so many things that
do not exclude Fashion.
Love for the Arts, the People, the Culture.
This is Paris!
I’m going to start out softly with this post which will otherwise be critical (I don’t want to say negative). But given the many favourites I have already mentioned in other fashion weeks, where designers have been on a high, it’s necessary to show the lows too. Then you can decide for yourself what it means to reach potential…or not.
I like to think of Rick Owens as a conceptual artist and not just a fashion designer, because his collections are directly that – conceptual. But this season’s collection fell a bit short for me.
Rick Owens to me, pursues a type of darkness that is not so often seen and a rare beauty it is. The problem I have here is that I don’t feel that it’s a finalised collection. Much of it still felt very experimental and not quite sure of itself yet (until maybe look 30 onwards), as if it were still in its toile stages. There are however, interesting ideas to take and perhaps this will lead on to the next collection?
Oh, this one’s definitely controversial! The brand has been through quite a few changes in the last few years. For one, the dropping of ‘Yves’ which caused rupture and much talks across the fashion industry, thanks to Hedi Slimane. His appointment at YSL (I will still call it as such), isn’t the most highly-regarded and still saddens fans of Mr YSL because change is difficult to take when the signature is totally different.
Sadly, I don’t think Anthony Vacarello is doing YSL a favour either. I cannot be the only one desperate to see real clothes at Saint Laurent? Apparently, combining leather, lots of black, sheer, slim tailoring and rock ‘n’ roll directly means YSL but there is no thought for ‘clothes’ let alone fashion. And where is the attitude? It’s all lacking.
There have been a lot of creative directors resigning in the recent year…so much so that it’s becoming like a trend (no pun intended). Aside from Raf Simons leaving Dior, Alber Elbaz’s leave from Lanvin was upsetting too, except the latter was let go of. Still upsetting though.
At best, this is a fair collection by Bouchra Jarrar, but still misses the mark, for it to be a true Lanvin collection. Lanvin is meant to be classic, timeless, desirable. There were some good elements here and there such as looks 33 and 46, but overall, not very convincing. It would benefit from more editing, especially as many outfits were over-designed and not too easy on the eye.
(P.S. I did not like the floral print one bit. That, along with the cutting – very unflattering on the female body.)
It was my not-so-favourite fashion moment, upon hearing Raf Simons departure away from Dior after-all it’s a show that I always look forward to seeing. Always.
This collection was no exception but for a different reason – curiosity. Sadly, it was very ‘un-Dior’ that you would never guess this was designed for Dior. Never. Maria Grazia Chiuri – first female creative director of Dior. That’s a big deal. However, her time at Valentino showed more in this collection than concentrating on encapsulating Dior.
Even Valentino could not save this collection. It was all a bit too flat, casual, unromantic, unimaginative.
(Also, if that ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ tee is in celebrating her being the first female creative director at Dior, I don’t think it’s very effective. The overall collection has diluted that message.)
Whilst these not-so-favourite collections are in no particular order, the idea of Céline and Phoebe Philo right now just gives me a headache and a ton of disappointment this season. I just…didn’t get it. It was very strange and most definitely not the Céline everyone had begun fan-girling over. This was different. Too different.
In short, I felt that it tried to be conceptual rather than starting from the concept. The colour and fabric combinations were strange. Not interesting or particularly beautiful – just strange. The back-to-front shirt was hardly anything ground-breaking. The colour block outfits were not well-considered according to the body. It’s sad to say there was not one outfit (or piece) that I liked. Oh, and don’t get me started on the blue-paint-print dress (see below).
I’m in two minds about this collection. The review of this on BoF is named ‘Sci-Fi Heroines at Louis Vuitton’. I’m not too sure that I agree. I want to say that Nicholas Ghesquière wanted to play heroes and villains in this episode: the good was really good and cool; the bad was well…pretty damn awful.
Some of the outfits I think could have used more editing (some parts were messy or unnecessary) and there were unfortunately some outfits too far in to be saved – an unforgivable design. But somewhere down the line, there’s probably someone loving this collection. It’s just not me.
(I’m purposely showing Look 4 because it’s that design, in that colour. On the flip side, I actually love look 15, including the styling.)
Photo credit: Indigital via BoF
All opinions are my own.