Another season and a whole load of new collections.
Do I care about the seasons? Maybe not so much.
But a girl loves the fashion and the perspective in becoming a woman perhaps.
New York, we’re coming for you first and I’m going to tell you what I think!
Every season during New York Fashion Week, I look forward to a few names and Dion Lee is amongst one of them. This time around, the Australian-born was inspired by refracted light which translated into ‘sliced fabric’ that was quite extraordinary and somewhat futuristic.
The trench coat was a particular starting point that was deconstructed and reconstructed into one-colour-one-tone outfits. The trench coat was dissected at intricate points such as the collar-bone or the ankle. Such attentive decision affirms great designer sensibility. Dion Lee loves to play and re-modernise and this was no exception.
Last season, Victoria Beckham confessed to having grown into her own, and perhaps with that in mind, she relaxed and played a bit more this season. You might also argue that she did not relax but took a risk instead, in choosing crushed velvet. For Spring/Summer.
It was an unusual affair, perhaps in VB wanting to validate her fashion position even more as if to say, ‘I can play. I can challenge myself.’ at which point, the audience and VB customer were challenged too for sure.
Victoria Beckham has never been shy of her capabilities or tastes but to use crushed velvet as she did requires such imagination, skill and finesse. There were some odd colour choices too such as the bright orange or the green-blue that one had to check twice that this was indeed VB’s collection.
There were notions of Japanese creative cutting – notably in the way the fabrics were handled and draped to be purposefully undone. And once VB stepped out to end the show literally in Japanese fashion, you just wonder how much she had immersed herself. Challenge accepted, challenge passed.
Sometimes, designers just want to make beautiful, goddess-like clothing and this is what you can expect from the likes of Jenny Packham.
Pretty clothes are no good if they don’t demand attention. There needs to be power, desire, seduction…I guess in some ways, the sins of beauty. She doesn’t want to play princess, she wants to be the queen.
A brand that I’m not very familiar with but we can start now!
Somehow, secretly, I have been waiting for the subject of fruit to creep into a collection because every Spring/Summer season, we can expect there to be plenty of floral. It is understood that Joseph Altuzarra was inspired by David Lynch’s film Wild At Heart, from which the use of python (not shown) becomes more understandable. (Instead, it was the fruits on top of the python that were the unexpected.)
Despite the python not being a highlight within this collection, having over-stepped the boundaries of kitsch, there were other looks that hit the nail right on the head. A lesson in how to make kitsch wearable.
We have seen all-whites and we have seen ombre, but somehow this was a different take in combining the both to open the show. Prabal Gurung started from where he left off last season and more than anything, it was evident that it was about the journey of the woman: the Prabal Gurung woman.
There were some areas from the Autumn/Winter collection that was brought in, such as the cross-seaming, but this time in an appropriately lighter fabric. Surprisingly, fur was included too as a wrap (not shown) – if you can call that a lighter option.
The off-shoulder trend doesn’t appear to be wavering any time soon either although this was used rather sparingly which was a smart choice. Smarter was Prabal Gurung’s evening wear in his version of ombre.
All opinions are my own.
Photo Credit: Indigital via Vogue