A moodiness is always present at Paris Fashion week. Something sinister. An attitude that wears the clothes, that brings to the clothes a new life or is it vice versa? Either way, wearing all-black never gets old, but do be surprised when you do see colour, even in the slightest.
One of the best things that the designer find solutions for is how a woman should dress for her figure. How best to accentuate the feminine curves of the body and the solution that Roland Mouret found for that was in the cut, in the panelling to be exact.
The opening look was so strong. Applying shape to a fabulously shaped body already is quite the formula to make. From top to bottom she was covered but it was every inch sensual and bold with the fabric combinations, and said panelling. The sweeping curved lines hugged under and over the hip, under and over the bust. It was definitely a lesson in understanding the human female body more.
Then, there was the pop of colour and textures that screamed luxurious in a sophisticated sense so much that you could imagine a Parisian Evening setting. Appropriate.
That pop of colour every wardrobe needs.
It’s hard not to like Kenzo.
It’s hard not to like Kenzo more and more, season after season.
I can tell you now that Kenzo is one of the most exciting brands that I look forward to seeing because they just seem to get the creativity vs. wearability formula right. There is some tradition in the clothes but completely revamped…a girl into a woman with attitude, point of view and direction in the 21st century.
The most interesting was the silhouette and cut, closely followed by fabric and colour combinations. There was play in the silhouette – sleeves scrunched up, ruffles and volume to add dimension to the shoulders, the body, an overall effect.
The more I look at the above looks, the more ‘YSL’ I think they look…is it just me?
The former part of the collection felt stronger than the latter part (below) which at times, felt too referential to Miu Miu and Prada with its clash of prints although it did work as a look. The fundamental debate at the moment is where Kenzo is going as its voice now is nothing of that from the 80s that was so vivid and full of life. From a ‘cutting’ perspective, there is much to see in this collection, but from an overall brand aesthetic, I think there needs to be some re-evaluation.
Valentino has the answer if you have ever considered what would happen if punk and ballet were combined. When I initially viewed the collection, the opening monochrome outfits sold me. I want to be that woman. I want what she’s having.
I don’t typically wear black and white clothes from head to toe but the styling and garment combinations really got my heart going! Even the bag and how it was worn on a short strap was the ultimate ‘cool girl’ moment. The clean, crisp white shirt popped perfectly with the stark blacks, and it was perhaps this contrast that fuelled attitude into a monochrome look, a colour palette that never gets old.
Of course, a ballet theme couldn’t be without an array of dusty pink shades and a silhouette that highlights the waist. Sheer, flesh-toned dresses are also no stranger to the Valentino empire but what really struck me was the gorgeous, long militant coat that was patterned. That was the stand-out piece for me, as if the patterns was adding much strength, just as an army does for its country, just as ballet does to a story. It was beautiful, and it may have been surreal, but it really was real.
The metallic embellishments upon the sheer-tone dresses added a non-obvious military stance. Metallics as Armour.
Note: All images courtesy of Indigital.tv via Style, Vogue and BoF