Continued from part 1 of my #MFW highlights.
There are brands that you immediately fall in love with, and there are brands that are on a slow-burn, that you love more as time goes along. Jil Sander is the latter (or at least for me anyways).
If there is something to know about Minimalism, is that it is not boring at all. With a monochrome palette, much was achieved in this collection. Shape, form, a real sensual understanding of the female body with hints of sci-fi that felt empowering and fresh.
What interested me the most was the metallic textures upon a stark black which although was subtle, appeared incredible upon close-up and added a whole other dimension to the collection. The tailoring, was fabulous as always; beginning with a white double-breasted coat with strong shoulders and proportions that were just right. It then followed with some artfully draped looks such as the ‘shirt dress’ with excess fabric that wrapped around the waist gorgeously or the more, loose and effortless oversized dress.
Ports 1961 is a new brand for me to study, just as it is for new Creative Director Natasa Cagalj to embrace. But its story of origin is sweet. Established by Japanese-Canadian entrepreneur, Luke Tanabe wanted his wife to wear the best fitted men’s shirt – but for a woman. A story that begins with a white shirt is quite something, and holds much meaning to myself as it was the first garment I learned to sew from start to finish. A white shirt is really, the nostalgic piece – to a man, and a woman.
The collection started off quite strange, but delightful for me. The androgynous mood was immediate, opening with an all-black boyish suit that then begun to transform and unravel as the collection went on. The garments look slashed – but intentionally to a high finish, peeling away from the body which added a more sensual mood. There were a few looks that I didn’t quite understand (not shown here), hence unsuccessful. These were namely the non-tailored looks but for sure, the tailored looks, particularly the outerwear was a strong highlight of the season.
Two words. Donatella Versace!
Versace has a place in my heart that I am unashamed to admit. Possibly the overtly sexiest brand in the history of Fashion, that you are sure to see on the Red Carpet. It’s hard not to recognise the Versace signature by now. But my, has Donatella really grown into her own in this particular season!
During one particular project at University, I had studied Versace from its history and origins to when Donatella took over after her famed brother was shot dead. Donatella, a known muse to Gianni’s flamboyant clothes and style, took the house under her wing and it’s been a long journey.
But you know what? I think Donatella is still the story of the Versace clothes of now, the star of her own show. There was every ounce of this collection that I felt was Donatella’s own story, and a celebration of who she has become, what Versace has become – something that her big brother would be proud of.
Power dressing was a continued theme from last season which began with Gigi Hadid in a tailored dark navy coat, that was sliced open at the elbows, and at waist length revealing that all-too-familiar high knee but this time, refreshed. There were also Art-inspired prints, in particular a ripple effect icicle that lengthened the female form in a new light – the Versace woman was transforming from the old into the new.
Above is a selection of my favourite tailored looks.
Below is a selection of my favourite, more art-inspired looks.
But honestly? I loved every single look and this has got to be Donatella’s strongest collection ever.
Stay tuned for my final part of my #MFW favourite cuts. After, one more season (#PFW) to go!
Note: All images courtesy of Indigital.tv via Style, Vogue and BoF