My #NYFW highlights continues. Have you checked out part 1 yet? Also, look out for part 3, coming soon.
What have been your Fashion Week highlights?
Look out for #LFW, #MFW and #PFW highlights which will follow these coming few weeks!
Put monochrome and fencing together, and you have a femme fatale ready to take on the world. The blackest blacks, khaki greens, warm-tone browns. It was a new take on ‘restriction’ I felt – a subject which is no stranger to fashion theme and inspiration. I was most intrigued by the armour-over-shirting vs a high slit maxi-skirt, and the beautiful parallel stitching on the jackets.
Honestly, I wasn’t so fussed on the last 10 or so looks of the collection (there were 40 in total). A bit of a shame, because it was going somewhere but didn’t quite grasp a final destination (if anything, it lost the ‘femme fatale’ vibe). I would have loved to have seen more tailoring with another element – a ‘wow’ factor but this will suffice.
Admittedly, I am least acquainted with Thom Browne’s work so this is an entirely new choice for me. That is not to say I did not know of his tailoring talents, but to combine both tailoring and deconstruction successfully is upon a new level of difficulty. Whimsical and witty, Thom Browne pulled off a job not for the faint-hearted. It was every bit daring and endearing – almost in the same realm as Alice In Wonderland, but older, wiser, darker. Perhaps it was the Victorian mood that set off that side.
The styling in particular was magnificent. Sometimes, we all need a little ‘crazy’ in our lives, and this was it. A bit of airy-fairy business never killed anyone, with ties seemingly ‘in the air’, taking a life of its own. Jackets wrapped around waist as skirts, trousers undone to reveal another layer, something right and something wrong.
Can we also talk about some of the more wearable looks please? The tailored outerwear jumpsuit is just genius.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Is there ever a season where Phillip Lim isn’t my favourite? I don’t think so. The eponymous brand is like a fine wine, that just keeps getting better and better. This season, he looked to the Land of the Rising Sun. Orientalism. It’s difficult to appropriate culture to a collection sometimes, as to not be too literal but Phillip Lim did just fine. The fabrication and colour combinations were refreshing, and told a story of artisanal practices prevalent in the details. There was plenty to desire.
Phillip Lim strikes me as the type of designer who knows exactly what the Downtown New York woman would want to wear. Whilst he may take an element from the streets, he is able to balance it again with the tailoring, and take it to a new destination each time. Every time.
I am ending this post today with a bit of glamour, which is where Prabal Gurung comes in. One of the most special and irreplaceable aspects in Fashion is a pair of good hands. Not machinery. Good hands. Thus, the amount of respect I have for the industry (and others alike), is huge, particularly considering this Digital Age at present.
This season, Prabal Gurung’s woman is expensive. The Nepalese designer has a knack for creating much coveted textures with his choice of fabric combinations. It was for the femme fatale looking for other choices than just a sharp black suit or black anything. It was no ‘walk in the park’ either – all looks were aspirational and one not to be reckoned with. Prabal Gurung’s woman means serious business through to the end of night.
The details were gorgeous. Fur was used sparingly in conjunction with other fabrics (I am not a fan of huge fur coats or anything of the like). My favourite detail however, was the multiple hook and eyes that were so intricate and so precise in their making, and quite frankly, nothing that I have seen before. It’s hard to use the word ‘original’ anymore, in any context but this came close to it.
Note: All images courtesy of Indigital.tv via Style, Vogue and BoF